Hanoi: Goodbye chaos

I wonder if its a joy to be back in Hanoi ;)

The traffic drove me nuts and sometimes I just didn't want to step out of the hostel. May De Ville is perfect, there's a room for pool, another for movie and an affordable restaurant. It kept me in for 4 movies! I was put in the hostel room at the highest level 9th storey, with a few long-termed occupants. One of them, a Singaporean uncle, he was a bit too chatty, a little weird yet harmless but he snored!! A friendly American old man and a New Yorker who was teaching English in Hanoi. I wonder if this Japanese girl stalked me! LOL. Kidding. But she ended up at my hostel, after I told her where I was staying. So she got put in the same room as me, I didn't mind since we could go out together despite the communication barrier. She and the Singaporean uncle seemed to have a mutual dislike for each other as they both were talking bad of each other. What a joke!

That day after check-in, I went for a quick bite at Countryside restuarant recommended by the Belgian couple I met earlier. I didn't manage to get my perfect fresh prawn springrolls, apparently the fried ones are everywhere. Maybe it's not a norm in Northern Vietnam?? They did good cheap crepe with ice cream though. The rest of the day, I just lazed in the hostel watching movies (One Night Stand, parts of Black Swan and most parts of 72 hours) and having dinner at the restaurant. They do really good carbonara pasta :)

The following day, I decided to venture out with the Japanese. She's quiet, polite but has a quirky temper (I saw it when she was cursing the Singaporean uncle), quite a character. We had breakfast, then off to visit Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum. It is open daily till 11am, so get there early. There was tight security and a long queue but it was very smooth and orderly. It was cold, dim and very secure, and there his body laid there peacefully under the glow.

We skipped the Ho Chi Minh Museum and Residential Palace, and went to the One Pillar Pagoda which the Japanese was fascinated with. A wee little temple sitting on a pillar, crowded with tourists. I paid my respects, took some pictures and overheard a guide explaining that people came here to pray for fertility. We stopped for a cake and coffee on our way back. The Japanese being very budget conscious would order only a drink or dessert whenever I ate. Sometimes for dinner, she would just buy a 7000 dong bun. Along the way, we chanced upon the Citadel and Flag Tower of Hanoi. I love the yellow and green of Citadel, and it was very peaceful and tourist-free.

It was a long walk back. Then it was movie time for me... I watched Hunger Game with a Singaporean girl, Hui, who managed to get a DVD off the street. By the time it finished, I was starving. We went out to hunt for the famous Bún chả but failed, so we settled for a nice posh dinner at Little Hanoi near the hostel. After the dinner, I stayed up for another movie, Letters to Juliet! Lovely one. This Russian guy whom had chatted me up a few times joined me, but I rejected his over-friendliness and he left (oops). The next morning, I bumped into Hui again at breakfast, I bid farewell to her as I left for the airport. I decided to try my luck again to find Bún chả , but the infamous shop wasn't opened till 10am... What luck! But on my way to the airport shuttle, I found a stall!! I bought it and had it at the airport but it didn't do my tummy any good :(

My flight back was horrible sitting in front of loud misbehaving Vietnamese kids. Thank God I could change seats and found my peace and quiet. I was really glad to be home, away all the chaos in Hanoi.

p.s: In 2010 the citadel was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List as "The Central Sector of the Imperial Citadel of Thang Long - Hanoi". (Quoted from Wiki)

Sapa: A beautiful drama

I was warned how cold it would get in Sapa... I brought my fleece jacket and scarf, and guess what, they were totally not of much use. I had to take them off bit by bit as the heat got to me!! It was a sunny morning!

After an early breakfast, all of us checked out and waited for the trek to begin. It was alarming to see the number of guides standing outside our hotel waiting to pick us up for the trek. We were separated into groups of 8-9. As the groups slowly trickled away, more and more women or girls in ethnic costumes joined in. I had about 5-7 of them following my group, I trekked with two Canadians, a German family and a Japanese. So if you're wondering why they are following us, you will soon find out. I was not with the French and Danish anymore as they were staying one more night at the homestay and were in another group.

I have to say Sapa is worth every penny and sweat, the sight is simply breathtaking.

I believe everyone had a different route but we got to the same destination. Mine wasn't the easiest, we had some slippery steep slopes to go down and my almost 100 bucks worth of trekking sandals wasn't even up for it. The tribal women were doing a better job in slippers and wellies! But I was fortunate enough a 8 year-old tribal girl seemed to be sticking to me, she was helping me all along and even got me 1-2 more assistants along the way. I found myself a bamboo climbing stick :p That said, I did owe her a big favour after the trek which I have to repay by agreeing to buy souvenirs from her. Like I mentioned, tourism is hitting this place hard, they quoted exorbitant prices for them. I bought from 3 of them after managing to push down the prices, not cheap but I guess something I would agree to for all the help offered during the trek ;)

Guess whose the real guide?? ;) The one with a hat, 3rd from the left.

After the 3-4 hours trek, a tedious one by my standard, we finally settled down for lunch. Before that, we were bugged by these people to buy souvenirs ;) Expect 2-3 times the price from Bac Ha market. After lunch, we continued a stroll down the villages, luckily, nothing down steep slope. It was an easy and relaxing walk, passing by many buffalos, pigs, chicks, stunning rice terraces and some handicraft shops. By then, my travel mates had separated from me, while me and the rest headed back to the hotel before our overnight train.

A shower and then an early dinner at 5pm. I bid farewell to the Japanese trek mate as she left to take an overnight bus. A van took us to the train station and we waited for the guide to retrieve our train tickets. At about 8pm, most of them got theirs and made their way to the station. I was stranded with 2 guys and a paranoid old lady. When it came down to just two of us, me and the German dude named Tobias, we felt something was wrong. The guide kept telling us to wait and could not give us our tickets. We were led to the ticket office but could do nothing except wait. The irresponsible guide then left us there.

Tobias got furious and started swearing at the staff, I actually was very calm. I didn't mind if we had to stay an extra night provided we did not have to sleep at the train station. But I tried to tell them they could give us a VIP cabin if our cabins were overbooked. We met an uncle (who seems Singaporean), he told us the train tickets are controlled by black market meaning the tour agencies whom had reserved a big portion of them and only to let go at the very last minute. Tobias then got impatient and started ringing his hostel and mine, which perhaps worked, and we got our tickets in Orient Express cabin, a much better one than the one I arrived in. We shared with a German couple, both very nice and spoke excellent English too. It was a dramatic night, Tobias illustrated to them. I managed to get some sleep but instead of getting cold, it was very warm in this cabin.

Then the usual, someone came knocking on the door, we had arrived. Tobias left, and I bid farewell to the German couple. I was alone again at 530am, and somehow I managed to bargain for a satisfactory motorbike ride to my new hostel, May De Ville.

Bac Ha: A minority ethnic people market

I am back to tell my stories... Sorry, so much happenings since my return, I haven't got time to really sit down and continue my Vietnam tales.

And yes, I managed to get my train ticket and boarded the train to Lao Cai that Saturday night. I shared the cabin with 2 Koreans whom I mistook for a couple, but the guy who spoke surprisingly excellent English is the boss of the younger girl. We had a brief conversation, the boss has been working in Vietnam for over 10 years (WOW) and this girl just briefly arrived (2 weeks when I met them). By about 10pm, the boss retired to bed, I decided not to disturb them and withdrew to my own space. It was a cosy little bunk, I was lucky to get the lower one as it would save me trouble climbing up and down! The train moved very slowly as I cuddled up under my duvet. Yes, I heard the distance is not that great to Lao Cai but because of how undeveloped the rail system is in Vietnam, that was the speed we could go on. It got really cold at night but I slept really well.

It was still pitch dark when someone came knocking on every door, shouting that we had arrived. The Koreans quickly woke up, got their luggages and bid me farewell. I was on my own. I was handed a card before I boarded, I took it out and read the instructions. Fortunately I did as they were many guides, maybe some bogus ones, going around asking to pick you up.

I was picked up by a young pretty Vietnamese lady, but I was the only one not joining the rest, because I signed up for the Bac Ha market (for USD10 more) which happened every Sunday. I was told to wait at a restaurant for about 2 hours before the pick-up, I joined 4 others whom were already there, a French couple and 2 Danish girls. We shared our time eating breakfast and then wondered around Lao Cai station. When we went back, the Danish girls' bag of snacks was mistakenly taken by the owner and displayed for sale. I am not surprised now I am writing this but I was really taken aback then how some of the Vietnamese took advantage of others.

In Vietnam, I learnt that the tour mini van are usually booked to the very last seat. So it's impossible if you carry an extra big luggage or to add an additional person at the last minute.

It was over an hour journey to Bac Ha market. When we arrived, it was already buzzing with other tourists. I even managed to get WiFi there while sitting at a cafe, so amazed. It was a stretch full of handicraft stalls where most of us would try to bargain 50% off. I sure needed some warming up as the first purchase I got I agreed at 30%, then I got better it was 50% and then almost 66%... I have to say it was the best place for "shopping" in Vietnam, as the rest of the places would rarely give in to low prices. But then again, there isn't really much to buy, except for handicrafts.

We had about 1-2 hours before lunch was served. There were horses, buffalos and even puppies for trade or sale, wet and dry market. Many of the people wore their ethnic costumes, I wondered if it was meant for the tourists or they really do so in the absence of us. It was just unbelievable, I felt like I was in a TV drama. Bac Ha market is indeed an eye-opener.

After the market, we were taken to a local village where we see how they live. At the house, we saw cat, dog, pig, horse, hen and chicks, goose... little children playing. The inside of the house was nothing like what we live in today, they have no stove, no sofa, no television, no electrical appliances or at least I didn't see any. But it was a funny sight when you see one of them with a mobile phone, working on the rice padi field.

This photo reminds me of my childhood. I brought lollipops on the trip and offered them to the kids I chanced upon, it was a simple gesture but it made them happy. It was a shame I didn't have enough as we were taken to a local school later and there were so many cute little children! At some parts, I didn't really like it especially when an old woman or a young kid asked for money when you casually snapped a photo of them. Tourism is ruining the humanity in places like these, places where values, traditions and kindness should be preserved.

After that, we were taken to the most northern point of Vietnam where it is linked to China. We were right in front of a bridge that separates Vietnam and China. I almost wanted to go over for a stamp in my passport but was told there wasn't enough time as I had to get into the building to get the administration done before I can walk over. What a shame!

A long bus ride awaited us. It was past 5pm when we finally checked in at Sapa Summit Hotel, we didn't have time to check out the little Sapa town as most of us were exhausted. The French and Danish booked for massages in their rooms while I chilled in my room, snapped the beautiful sunset before I caught up with the couple of dinner. It was a quiet and easy night before the trek the following day.

Tip: Don't do the Vietnamese massage. From the experience of my travel mates, it was a horrific experience. The Danish girls seemed to have some luck the Vietnamese people went crazy over their snacks. The masseuses were eating their stuff without their permission!!

Hanoi: Hostelling

Gray and gloomy, the trees swaying... I sat on my bed on the upper bunk, lazy to move an inch.

I would be checking out today to leave for Sapa that night. The weather wasn't the least encouraging for me to head out, so I took my time for breakfast, packed and talked to a Peru lady, Ruth from my female dorm. She has been on the road for months and she has no destination. Suddenly travelling solo seems like the least courageous thing compared to a lot of the people I met out there. They do it for weeks, for months, on a backpack. They don't plan, they have no itinerary, they come and leave when they like. Isn't that brave? I spoke to various people on this trip, but Ruth makes an impression.

The day before, Max, the Dutch-German guy I canoed with told me the name of the hostel he was staying. He was leaving that day, but I decided to check it out. This place (Hanoi Hostel) was great, more personable, has its own character, interesting people but the only thing that bothers me, the bathroom. So I walked right into the Old Quarter, checked out a few places with terrible customer service before I found it, May De Ville Backpackers Hostel. It was tucked in a cosy little corner. It looked posh, too nice for a backpacker hostel. For almost the same price as the previous two places, they included buffet breakfast, movie and billard room and more importantly a better bathroom. I felt like I had hit the nail on the spot, that was so going to be the place for the last two nights.

The Old Quarter area is really nice, there are always places to eat and drink, even late at night. I really like Ta Hien street too, there I found the stamp shop where I could custom make some wooden stamps. I made my orders to be collected when I return. It was about lunch time and I headed to this place named Cha Ca La Vong recommended by the Singaporean family, the prices gave me a shock - 190,000 VND for a meal. That is ridiculous, I felt conned again. I walked out and then settled for a 30,000 VND chicken pho on the street. "This is what I am in Vietnam for!", I thought. Then I went to the bakery next door, bought some cakes for my train journey tonight.

It was about 1pm, I was on my way to the Women's Museum when I bumped into Shaun (the sheep). I knew I had to get him because the last time I didn't, I had been thinking of it eversince. With Shaun, I entered Fanny, a fanciful ice cream parlour and bought myself a treat. The Women's Museum is an inspiring place that brought many insights about the lives and cultures of Vietnamese, especially the women. If you didn't know:

• They practise polygamy in their earlier days
• Men stayed at the wife's after first wedding ceremony
• Women as young as 17 fought the war some 30-40 years ago

Women's Museum

After almost 2 hours in the museum, it was time to head back to the hostel to get some rest. The constant honkings on the road drove me nuts, crossing the roads was always a challenge. Along the way, I decided to drop by St Joseph for a little sightseeing. Intrigued by the locals all sitting down on the stools drinking lemon tea and having finger food right besides the cathedral, I joined them.

Back in the hostel, I chilled at the rooftop where we had breakfast. Then it was about 6 when many others joined me, it was time for free beer. An hour of free beer. But the staff seemed to have forgotten, the rest of us made conversations while the boy went to seek for help. It was here I met a Belgian couple living in Singapore, two canadians, beat the Australian in the "Four in a line" game and outwitted the Irish that Asians are not stupid. Interesting evening. Bus was really late. I almost thought I was left out. Apparently I was the last few to be picked up, and I had no train ticket. I probably need to worry less as things always worked out at the end :)

Halong Bay: In a junk

Of course, the following morning, I couldn't wait to get out of the first hostel. I am so glad I did not pay or book in advance for the rest of the trip. This way, I have the freedom to choose and leave if the place didn't live up to its name. I checked into Hanoi Hostel at Hang Ma, it was good to meet Mike, the owner, whom got me my Sapa tour. His staff has arranged for me the night before, with a short call to Mike, he managed to get it sorted for me; they are all young and genuine people, none of them tried to sell me anything.

I was picked up at the first hostel for the Halong Bay tour. A very pretty boy guide named Duc went around to fetch everyone. He, like the "con man" was very good with words, he sure could sell. Both of them didn't give me any good vibes. Anyway he entertained us with lots of stories during the 3 hours journey there; it was a good mix of crowd we had - Japanese-American, Dutch-German, Iranians, English, Singaporean, Vietnamese and French.

We arrived past 1pm and soon after we got onto our junk named Halong 10. We were joined by another 20+ people, I was told the junk could hold over 48 people. It was white, with a proud Vietnam Flag flying on the deck. Lunch was soon served while we set off further into the bay. I sat with the Singaporean family whom invited me, and a Vietnamese uncle.

Halong Bay

At our first stop, we got down on a floating platform, we could either go for a floating boat ride or kayaking. There was only 3 of us kayaking, as the Japanese-American dude set off alone, the Dutch-German bloke offered to share one with me. I haven't done it for years, so it needed a bit of warming up ;) But at the end, we had fun and of course I took a lot of nice photos for him. After that, we went back up on the junk and continued to the second destinatinon, Động Thiên Cung Cave. It was a  long climb up to the entrance, the interior of the cave was lit up with various colours, and streaming with tourists. I wouldn't say I wasn't impressed but with the number of tourists in it and the fake lighting, it wasn't as pleasant as I would imagine. I wish there was less people and we could have the time and space to really appreciate it :)

Động Thiên Cung Cave

Back on the boat, there were souvenirs on every table for you to buy, then we headed back to the harbour. No sea sick! Phew! It was another 3 hours journey on the bus.

I finally got back past 8pm, very hungry. I went around the corner, found a stall still open, raised my index finger and sat now. Food was served, great, without me speaking a word. It was Bánh cuốn (Quoted from Wiki: Rice flour rolls stuffed with ground pork, prawns, and wood ear mushroom.). After the tummy is filled, I decided to continue my venture to the Dong Xuan weekend market, as it was the only day I would be in Hanoi over the weekend. It was an eye-opener; mostly patronised by the locals, shoes and clothes were really cheap but still things I could find in Singapore. It was a long stretch with a small alley for food, the rest mostly sold stuff, but by 11pm some were already winding up. Then it was time to get some rest!

p.s: Halong Bay is listed as one of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Hanoi: Con man vs Salesman

And so... I am back. Alive and kicking to tell you a few more stories!

After my previous trip to Saigon, Vietnam, my perception of Vietnam has somehow changed. My sister calls it "the country with con men", and it is true in many cases. Travelling in less developed countries like these, one often has to possess more than wit. In this trip, I have encountered friendly and helpful Vietnameses, also the rude and mean ones. For example, while I was eating my takeaway before my flight, I had a packet of tissue next to my lunch. One Vietnamese guy just came forward, took a piece without asking to wipe his glasses. Hey hello, do you think I am blind?? Then in another occasion, my travel mates booked a massage in their room, to their horror, the Vietnamese masseuses were in their room eating their chips and chocolate (without asking!!). Geez, they are SO BLOODY RUDE. I am so turned off by such behaviour.

Anyhow, I shall start telling you my little journey to Hanoi. Jetstar got me there timely and safe, only to have me finding my way to the city centre by a mini van which only departed when packed to the brim! I can't complain for a USD2 fare compared to USD15 for a taxi. After being dropped off, then I had to find my way to my hostel. The bargaining started right after, fortunately, a kind old man finally agreed to my price and so I hopped on for my first motorbike ride in Hanoi. He dropped me off but at the wrong street, I managed to find my way, greeted by an extremely friendly guy in Little Hanoi Hostel. Despite that I didn't feel at ease with his friendliness, I enquired with him the tours I wanted to go on. He gave me the quotes which were what I would get at a Sinh Cafe travel agency or even more, not attractive to be exact. After so much negotation, he only gave a USD2 discount for 2 tour packages, with no guarantee of a 4 sleeping berth ticket on return. He also seemed to change his mind about the price every minute, not getting lower but getting higher! I got on WiFi and asked a friend who had done it recently and realised he might be just another con man in disguise. A very good salesman can be a con man, and a con man is certainly a very good salesman - no doubt about that. There goes those good reviews about the hostel, they are going to get a special one from me.

After settling down in a triple room with two other girls, the dormitory which would a much better room was full, I ventured out to Hoan Kiem Lake (Lake of the Restored Sword). Along the way, I came across the Water Puppet Theatre which was human congested. As it was only 60,000 VND (under S$4) for a ticket, I just went along and queued. Then a Vietnamese tour guide who was bringing a Malaysian couple around started chatting to me. The 50 minutes show ended near 730pm, with me starving. I sat on the cyclo for the first time after another successful bargain, and dined at a restaurant named Highway 4 recommended by that "con man" but wasn't impressed.

Just as things were a bit rough on the first day, I received a piece of bad news from home about the old man being sick. Things would get better, I believed. I began a frantic search on the other hostel I shortlisted, lady luck was on my side, it was only 5 minutes away. So at 1030pm, I put on my jacket, walked over and decided to go with the other place where they quoted me almost 30% less for the Sapa tour, with better train tickets (which turned out to be overbooked but glad it all worked out). I returned, wanting to check out but they refused as I was supposed to go with their Halong Bay tour and I had the bed for the day. So I reluctantly agreed to check out first thing tomorrow and would go on the Halong Bay tour as promised. For sure, things got better. I never met that "con man" again as the reception was manned by another guy whom was definitely much more genuine, I almost felt guilty for leaving.

A typical street in Hanoi

Au revoir Saigon

The last day, we weren't up to anything. We had gotten bored of things to do in Saigon, especially when one wasn't keen to revisit the tragic history. Dark clouds were gathering during breakfast time, and the rain kept us in till noon and we went to have a look at the beautiful architecture of Majestic hotel. Very classic, very grand.

TT was too kind, he took us around everyday! I hope he didn't feel obliged because he really didn't have to! On the last day, he introduced us to a Vietnamese restaurant outside district 1 for lunch and it was heaven. I swear, the best springrolls ever! I love fruit shakes and there I had two! TT is a very sweet guy. He remembered my sister's name, and never failed to interact with her so she wouldn't feel bored or shy. He would offer us the BBQ food before he even had any. He would show us how to eat the local food and wrapped the first one for us. I don't remember anyone else of recent whom would do such simple acts genuinely...

After food, we ran out of ideas on what to do. We wanted to bowl, but when we saw the arcade instead, we ended up playing a few games! I tried my luck on the toy catching machine to get the "fat little Shaun the sheep" but after umpteen tries, we gave up!!! Then it was back to Sheraton's rooftop bar for happy hour, 1 for 1 cocktail before departing for the airport. We ordered a really horrible drink that reminded me of medicine I had when I was young, pink and bitter. BRRRRRrrrrrrr. Knowing that TT is a poker addict, I offered him the game on my phone and sure enough he was enjoying it a lot! LOL. Sheraton's rooftop bar is the best as it on the 23rd floor and offers a good view compared to the rest of the bars, never exceeding 9 storeys. Then it was time to say goodbye :(

TT said he will visit Singapore. And then it's our turn to be the guide :)

Roaming in Saigon III

The following day, I brought the sister around to see the things she wanted to see. Everyone back home was more concerned for her, as I am the independent traveller and they think I might abandon her, LOL. So I had to take her everywhere I went and of course make sure she saw what she wanted to in Ho Chi Minh. It was also the first time we travelled together and fortunately there wasn't much friction, though at times she would show an attitude and refused to eat at meal times. Then I would make her order food else she would go hungry at night and everyone else will blame me after!

Friday was easy. We went to Notre Dame, my favourite Post Office where I mailed a postcard to myself, and the infamous City Hall for photos. We did a little shopping in one of the malls, not that we had any choices being in the area surrounded with them, and got some stuff from a Korean brand we never saw in Singapore. After that, we met TT for lunch and he took us to one of his regular lunch places. It was a little stall by the street, where they would set up the table and stools. Cold white noodles, two plates of leaves, glasses of iced tea and bowls of (grilled) BBQ pork in green papaya soup. They looked simple and so often the simplest things are the best! It's my sister's favourite meal in Saigon. Well for me, I love everything from the Vietnamese BBQ, this to the food we had later on. All the authentic local food I adore :)

After the meal, TT walked us to this new Saigon Square for some shopping, I had been to the old one during the last trip. They sell trendier clothes than Ben Thanh, often at a price you would not have to bargain too much, fake branded goods and souvenirs. Shopping in Vietnam isn't fantastic really, not a good place for it! We went to another big mall TT wanted to show us and argggggggghhh I found Singaporean brands in there, it was like just being in Singapore. My sandals fell apart but I didn't want to buy a Singaporean brand shoes in Vietnam, so we decided to sit down at an ice cream cafe before heading back to the hotel.

I left the sister in the hotel enjoying cable TV while TT took me on a ride in search of the kite I wanted to buy. He told me there would be people flying in an open space and stalls would be selling the kites. But I had no fate with it, no one was flying and selling on that fateful day!! The last time I was on his bike was 3 years ago, and it was barely 3 minutes ride to get back to my hotel. We were riding for an hour or so and I think my bum was getting numb :( But I witnessed a beautiful sunset, and the flooded roads of southern Vietnam and the horror of being on a motorbike in Vietnam. I don't think any foreigner will be able to ride it the way the locals do, they rode so close to each other and cutting each other's lane very often, but yet still so safely and would slow down for pesdestrians. It is just insane.

I felt very bad for a fruitless kite trip and making TT used up all his fuel despite him assuring me it was a fun ride. He then headed off to meet his friend while I took the sister to see the Ben Thanh night market where we shopped and had so-so dinner. There wasn't much to buy, and so we headed back and found a gem on the way back. A local bookstore! Sister got a French book and I found some fanciful stationery :) It started to rain and our plan to visit the rooftop bar at Majestic was cancelled. So it was just cable TV, and a nice warm bath for me :)

Birthday in Saigon II

As the saying goes, "it can only get better"... and it sure did.

So we were meeting TT, my Vietnamese friend, for dinner (check out the previous Saigon journal on how we met). I didn't realise he could still recognise me after 3 years and with a different hairstyle as we have only met once! I am so glad that internet exists! We have been in touch for 3 years, even talked about travelling together to Taiwan but he couldn't get a cheap ticket and so it didn't work out. He also talked about coming to Singapore but I guess I saw him there before he could come over.

TT agreed to take me to my favourite place for Vietnamese BBQ even though he hadn't stepped in there for 2 years since a bad experience 2 years ago. But he was impressed this time, service was prompt even when it was really crowded and the food was good. I hope it will change his mind after this ;) It was lovely, I had wild boar, deer, squid, fresh prawns that still moved, lotus rice and many more... It was his treat too!

We then proceeded to his bar for cocktails, the place where we first met by accident. It was still the cosy little bar with great prices and drinks! Nightlife in Saigon is much more happening than in Singapore... I was told the Vietnamese would have dinner till 10pm and then the drinking would start after. So we went to a place with amazing live bands that sang in English. The crowds were all sitting quietly listening to the music, unlike in Singapore, people would be dancing on the dancefloor.

After that, it was our first rooftop bar visit at Caravelle, our neighbouring hotel. The prices are insane, but well, these places are for tourists! I decided to go for a port since everything else was just as pricey! It was about midnight when we finished and we decided to head back, but TT wasn't ready. I think he would love to party more, but we were a bit exhausted from the drama today, and I would see him the next day too! We bought him the drink to thank him for being such an awesome companion for the night :)

The stay at Sheraton was okay, the room was comfortable and roomy. I just wish I had more pillows!! We had a pool view, and it helped and I could check it out before going down for my swim! I didn't like the shower facility so much as the shower head was fixed, so I made myself baths instead! It felt more like a business hotel though and there wasn't free internet included which is a shock for a 5 stars hotel! I read that even the cheaper hotels nearby have them.

Nightmare in Saigon I

Be a millionaire in Saigon, again.

The exchange rate apparently has gotten better than 3 years ago, from S$1 = 10,000 VND to 13,000 VND (in Singapore) or even 14,900 VND (in Vietnam)!!! But for sure, everything do cost a lot more now. I suggest to change minimum here and do the rest over there, easily in the malls or hotel reception :)

We took the afternoon flight by Jetstar and arrived past 2pm. As I was aware that going by meter would be cheaper, I went up to the security and asked for a taxi. Unknowingly, we got lured into one driven by a touting driver. Damnit, why didn't I realise it when the meter was already starting at 328,000 VND instead of 10,000 VND and he even locked the doors before we entered and after. I must really be alert the next time in other countries!!

During the first few minutes, he tried to make a conversation with his very bad English. As soon as we got out of the airport, he had to pay maybe 5,000 VND on exit, he asked me for 300,000 VND. I was stunned, I saw the ticket prices for leaving the airport and it was nothing near 300,000 VND, after some argument, he said 100,000 VND and then 10,000 VND which he said by mistake I believed. I passed him 20,000 VND if it was 10,000 VND as it was more reasonable but he changed his mind and said it was 100,000 VND. I told him it was too much and I would call my friend in Vietnam to check. He heard me talking on the phone, got anxious and decided to get his accomplice to ring up to convince me that I had to pay 300,000 VND. My friend assured me it was nothing more than 150,000 VND (maximum) to get to the hotel.

I was getting desperate. Believe it or not, I was so pissed too that I even wanted to escape from the car when it stopped but we were locked in! There wasn't any taxi hotline or taxi no. labelled in his car and I was on the verge of thinking I could hit him with my luggage at the last resort! LOL. I know, all my violent tendency was about to emerge at that desperation. Fortunately, I saw a no. on a sticker right in front of the front seat, we were at the back... and my eyesight didn't fail me! I managed to text my friend the no. as well as a no. on the sticker on the back window (which is their car identity no. I believe) and he rang up the taxi company. At one point, I even threatened to call up the police once we got to the hotel, and fortunately he never drove us to anywhere else! Just before we were nearing the hotel, he got a call (I believe from the complaint my friend has lodged). A few metres away from the hotel, he suddenly reset the meter to 100,000 VND and then once the doorman opened the door, he jumped out and complained that we wouldn't pay him! ASSHOLE! I told the doorman calmly that this idiot tried to charge me 300,000 VND for getting out of airport and over 400,000 VND on the meter. I believe I'm not the first to have met touting taxi drivers, so the doorman said it would be around 150,000 VND usually and I just gave him that. That asshole was trying to cover his ass, it left me very pissed for sure... but not for long after I had a swim :)

Personally, I don't recommend you doing what I did to the driver as I do admit it was a bit rash and might even ended up with very bad consequences if the driver had worse intentions. But calling up my friend and spotting the hotline certainly saved my day, thank God for that!

Post Saigon thoughts

I'm feeling tired but yet I can't get to bed. Is it always like this after a trip? Everyday for the past 3 days, I had alcohol... Cocktail, port & beer. Maybe it's a withdrawal symptom!

Saigon has changed drastically since I last visited and somehow I don't like it as much anymore. Too many malls have sprouted in the city and it just loses its real identity... It doesn't feel like it's Ho Chi Minh, it feels like it's Singapore-wannabe. The sight of branded stores just turned me off. I really like it for the authentic local eateries, handicraft shops or even cheongsam tailor. But not seeing Coach, Gucci, Milano, Fendi everywhere in a developing country... They are almost empty, I don't see anyone coming to Vietnam to buy these stuff really. I'm so glad it was all so different 3 years ago, but I'm also so glad this time I have a local to show me around - definitely makes a lot of difference!

I'll write a short trip journal once I finish sorting those pictures :) I'm still trying to count sheeps...

3 sets of bikinis and what else?

The news about the flood in central Vietnam freaked my parents out... As usual, I had to convince them it is not the place I am heading to! "Vietnam is pretty big, you know!"

Unlike my last visit 3 years back, this time I am adopting a different approach to enjoy Ho Chi Minh. Everything was on budget, from the local bus that I took from the airport to the budget family hotel... and all the street food. My sister wants to enjoy, she didn't even want to witness the reminders of the tragic Vietnamese history... I don't mind not seeing them again, as I already did, so I guess this time I will see different things in another light. From a luxurious hotel stay, rooftop bars' visits, a lot of swimming in the pool and maybe enjoying good food, especially that Vietnamese BBQ I miss very much, these will all be in the plan! As it's only 3 days 2 nights, I don't think we will spend a lot of money considering there won't much to buy from there (and the fact that we won't have checked in baggage allowance)!

Now I'm starting to look forward to it! It's time to ponder about what to bring! See you guys on Sunday!

p.s: Oh yes, oh yes, I need to stock up on my chewing gum!!!

Saigon diary III

5. Last drink in Saigon

The last night came, besides doing the usual Ben Thanh night market, another visit to the Saigon Market for H's last minute frantic hunt, H is done for the night. On the long walk this evening, I found a cheap box of Ginger tea and ended up with an enormous "size of a man's fist" bun 包 (inside: meat, vegetables and a salted egg yolk) and a grapefruit shake for dinner.

Being the last night in Saigon and not wanting to leave without another drink, I rang up a couchsurfer M who worked in the city. He was nearby, in a pub, doing some work and having a drink. So I decided to head there alone and well, have a last drink for the trip. It gave me a hard time to locate the pub which is off a small alley! Phew, luckily I found it through a funny incident (through some people in another pub thought that I was preying for a boyfriend?!).

At Le Pub. A little accident got me acquainted with Trung, a Vietnamese and the pub's manager. His cigarette has burnt a little hole in my top, I wasn't furious (quite surprisingly). Instead I decided to lessen his guilt by asking him to buy me a drink, and so it got us talking as M was busy sorting out some work. M's friend bought me another drink. 2 free drinks, one meal (which I ended up short of 4000 VND as I wasn't expecting myself to eat initially... but got away with it with the manager). I decided to head back to get a couple of hours of sleep and do the final packing. It was then Trung offered to give me a motorbike ride back to my hotel which is about 10mins walk away.

Absolutely beautiful ending. Nice country, wonderful people... I'm a little sad I met these people a little late, as it could be a start to some nice Saigon parties. But rest assured, I'll be back some day.

Saigon diary II

3. A River so Fertile

Mekong Delta is said to be one of the world largest producers of rice (behind Thailand). And how could I miss it?! Definitely, no way;)

A 2 Days 1 Night Mekong tour was perfect. It was a lot of hours on the boat along the river, we saw countless smiling faces (happy people I call them). It suddenly made me wonder what would it be like to live among them, leading a simple and easily contented life. A life without car, stressful job, million dollars' dream and etc. Someone I met later on told me, I would be thinking otherwise if I am in their shoes (true, such is life!). At the same time, soaking in their warmth, all my happy memories floated back to me... it touched me, deeply.

The tour wasn't as great as I thought. However, an awesome company and a ever-so-willing-to-help tour guide made it all a worthy compensation. Our tour comprises of cycling in a village (which I unfortunately didn't do so after a lucky fall off Pulau Ubin, it has put me off cycling on mountain bikes on narrow paths with river; I also did not want to endanger the lives of other motorists/cyclists, LOL), a village tour, crossing the Monkey bridge (made up of planks and branches), cruising along Mekong river, a night stay in Can Tho city, plus a morning visit to the floating market.

Anton who said I looked Vietnamese

We toured with 6 Dutch, 4 French, 2 American and including 2 of us, Singaporean. The American couple are on a English teaching stint in Busan, Korea, like us they are on a short 5 days trip. The rest, however, are on a month long journey, some have just began while others are near the end of it. The 3 French are in town to visit otheir friend (Anton) whom works in Saigon and are doing the travels together. One Dutch couple has caught me by surprise, they are so organized, probably the best among us. They have booked everything well in advanced before the trip (and being rewarded with much better accommodation than us in Can Tho!). Another male Dutch couple whom I got acquainted with, one of them shared my special liking towards the smiling children by the Mekong village/river.

Kids playing marbles. Kids playing "zero point". Doesn't it remind you of something... ;)

Travel is so fun, there's always interesting people on the road.

4. Soaking wet in Vietnam

One more day left in Saigon after the tour. Back again in the bustling city with 3 millions motorbikes, crossing the road is often a challenge. The tour guide's advice: Close your eyes, and cross the road. The motorists will stop for you. I haven't had the courage to try this!

Ben Thanh night market is more enticing than the day's. Dining was good and cheap and the stall owners were less aggressive and pushy. I had the Avocado shake (which they do it with condensed milk), it was simply yummilicious!!!!!!! Lecker! They did a slight twist to my beef Pho which has a garlic soup base. Still very appetizing though.

Shopping at Ben Thanh seems to be the easiest thing to do, not the cheapest. But because of the unpredictable frequent rain, we were stuck there for lunch and unavoidably also some quick shopping. I got my lanterns at S$4 each, not the best bargain as Syndy got hers at USD3-4 for so much bigger ones.

Having heard much about Cholon (Chinatown) in Saigon, we went to take a peep. Tuesday itself, being Mid-Autumn Festival (Moon Festival the Vietnamese call it), was in fact only for kids (as we were told). There wasn't much celebration but the variety of mooncakes was something we wanted to explore. They have Shark's fin, roasted chicken, fruits, etc in them! It was near the end of the festival and there was 50% off everything which came up to about S$2 per mooncake. Cheap!

There are said to be 3 magnificent Pagodas in Chinatown but we haven't got a map and surprisingly most people there spoke minimal Chinese/Mandarin. With some help, we managed to only locate a small temple/Pagoda. Petite but sufficient for a nice short visit.

Saigon diary I

21 - 26 September 2007
Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City), Vietnam
Cu Chi Tunnels, Cao Dai Temple, Mekong River Stay
Hot, wet and super humid

1. A City of Millionaires

With the exchange rate of approximately S$1 = 10,000 VND, many are easily millionaires in this developing country. Many expatriates can afford a comfortable life with the lower standard of living.

This is Saigon (Ho Chi Minh), south of Vietnam.

I haven't any expectation when I set foot in this city. Taking a public bus into the city, the bus was packed with students and locals whom barely could utter a word of English. Just as I wasn't expecting much, an uncle sitting in front of me turned out to be Taiwanese. He's a regular visitor (who knows why;)), and with him, I got some better insights of the place.

It didn't take long to find Ha Vy, the hotel I booked. Ha Vy is a family-run mini-hotel and more hospitable than I thought. Laundry only costs 10,000 VND per Kg and problems with faulty flush or heater were taken care of in the shortest time.
Syndy's (member of Fab 4) last stop was in Saigon and coincided with my first day there, so we met up. It was a rainy Friday, and we had to go about in disposable raincoats. That was much fun:) We had a good authentic Vietnamese lunch (thanks to her new friend, Martin, whom she met at our hotel), visited War Museum, Vietnamese rolls for tea-break and ended off the night with a "can't get enough" Vietnamese BBQ. We nearly gave up finding the place which was so well hidden, but luck was on our side... at the last minute, this place just appeared right in front of us.

2. A Country with Sad History

Vietnam has an unfortunate history, a war so recent that it really shocked me seeing them now some 30 years later. It all happened between 1959 to April 30, 1975 - a time where most of our parents are fortunate and safe enough to be in Singapore when the Americans were dropping chemical bombs, missiles and rockets onto the country. Women, kids and elderly were not spared, the tortures they went through were so inhuman. Really saddening! Read more here.

A day trip to Cu Chi Tunnels helps you to imagine how the Vietnamese got through their days living underground. Not recommended for the Claustrophobic! I went into the tunnel (which is about 1.2m tall), being small, I could bend instead of having to crawl on fours. At one point in the tunnel, it was pitch black and for a moment I felt so helpless. Good to have a torch or mobile phone or camera with you! We also had a chance to fire a real rifle, and I tried 2 shots;)

A visit to Cao Dai Temple to witness the mass (ceremony) is indeed an eye-opener. Cao Dai , a religion derived from multiple religions - it draws on ethical precepts from Confucianism, occult practices from Daoism, theories of karma and rebirth from Buddhism, and hierarchical organization (including a pope) from Roman Catholicism. The followers, unlike those of the monasteries, are allowed to wed but they must follow monogamy. The various colored robes, different hats and even wearing of shoes signify the devotee's status.

It was also during this day trip that we befriended an Australian-Mexican family, Barbara and Paul with two very mischievous, adorable sons. They are a well-traveled family and always doing trips with the kids - lucky them at such a young age. We shared interesting stories and a dinner together.