Memoirs of Nippon (9)

Rinku Town is a dangerous place, let me correct it, dangerous for the wallet! The Rinku Premium Outlet has 210 stores, you simply won't be able to see them in a day!!! This little gem is right across the Kansai airport, and to take advantage of the shopping before I headed home, I was staying at the Star Gate Hotel right besides it! They do free airport shuttle in the morning, so "delivery" of my shopping loots home yea!

In fact, Rinku Town is very pretty. Look at the picture on the left. That was taken near the bridge linked to the outlet malls, so in the picture is part of Rinku Pleasure Town Seacle and behind that is my hotel. Rinku Pleasure Town Seacle is a mall itself, I only went to a few shops as I didn't have time. Some very cool, especially one selling handmade stuff from India, another selling San-X products (Sentimental Circus)... Love them!  There are two sides of the premium outlet, one on each side of the road! In the next picture (below), I'm showing you one of the sides.

Before arriving, I had spent hours looking up on the list of stores and because there are 210... and I barely had half a day, so I shortlisted about 30-40 I wanted to see. I picked mostly Japanese brands as the American ones I had seen them back in Las Vegas outlet and probably they wouldn't be as cheap as America. So that was a lot of quality shopping for me, I found a few good buys. It was almost like a marathon, I kept having to time myself at each shop, just to make sure I had enough time to see the next one. Hahaha. Shopping can be really stressful too. I managed to sneak in a meal time at Bagel & Bagel and it was the most delicious one ever. I had the cheese bagel, with some kind of smoked ham (I can't read Japanese so I didn't know what that was called).

I finally called it a day at 740pm. They closed at 8pm! I got 2 bags from Beam, a Marc Jacobs pouch, a watch, a dress, a top and some miscellaneous items. That already costed me a few hundreds (S$).

The ferris wheel had lit up in the dark sky. Then I rushed off to find a convenience store which was open till late to get some snacks and things my cousin had requested me to buy home. I walked back hungry but with a satisfied smile on my face. It was my last night in Japan, I couldn't help but felt a tinge of sadness.

As I arrived earlier than the check-in time, my luggage was brought up to an assigned room for me. I was on the 39th floor, a corner room. I didn't know why but I felt uneasy in the room and I was whatsapping my friends on how freaky it was! LOL. After calming my nerves, I had a quick shower and went to bed. When it was daylight, I felt safer and spent the whole morning packing all the loots. It was drizzling that morning, Japan must have felt sad for me to leave too! I almost missed the time for my shuttle as I was packing down to the very last 5 minutes before the shuttle. HA! Then I ran down, check-out was a breeze and then the bus was there just in time.

Of course I came back with an additional carry-on luggage! Malaysia Airlines gave me 30kg allowance anyway, so I was pretty sure I hadn't exceeded. The queues at both the check-in and departure gate were madness, please please do online check-in next time (a reminder to self)!!! I did some more last minute souvenir shopping at the airport, and now I wish I had bought more green tea dango!

On the flight back, the service was much better than on the way there. I supposed it was the stewards and stewardesses too. I was watching "The Impossible", about the tsunami in Phuket some years back. At the same time, there was a bad turbulence going on, I felt so sick that I threw up! First time ever I used that air sickness bag in front of the seat!! I had to pause the movie to go to sleep before watching it again! I sat besides a guy from Hiroshima whose on his way to Kuala Lumpur for business, he was very humble and polite and we had a short conversation.

I had a short transit in Kuala Lumpur and now I know why Changi Airport is the best. It was so warm there, almost like they did not turn on the air-con! Worst of all, it was so BORING there, so I bought myself tea and muffin (worst muffin ever) at the Harrods Cafe. After which, I sat at the boarding gate, wishing I could fly home sooner!

Drizzle welcomed me home again. That marked the end of my first Japan trip but I knew I will be going back again. Missing all the people I met and food I had... Even at this moment I'm writing, it still brings back lots of good memories!

Memoirs of Nippon (8)

So finally I was back in the big city. Osaka. First thing I wanted was the green tea McFlurry. It was about time my shopping urges went out of control... HAHAHA. Actually it wasn't not too bad, I bought a top, eyed one bag (didn't buy but eventually did). Walking along the infamous shopping lane from Namba to Shinsaibashi (where my hostel was), the crowd was insane on a Sunday! I hated it, got out and back to the hostel to have a shower and chill before meeting Anson's friend for dinner.

Chinatsu, that's her name. I had never seen a photo of her, so that was the only thing I knew about her. We arranged on email to meet for a dinner, and coincidentally she worked at Daimara, just across from my hostel. After some hiccups with me approaching another stranger, we finally met up at the Apple store entrance. I told her I really wanted to do yakitori (after that incident in Kyoto), so she took me to a place (no English was spoken), it was more of a BBQ kind of yakitori. The food was really good and reasonably priced too. Chinatsu spoke some English, and in fact I didn't know she was at least 10 years older than me! OMG. She did not look anything like it!!! We had a good conversation as if we knew each other, not awkward but perhaps due to her limited English vocabulary, it was harder to have a deeper conversation. I really appreciated her taking the time out to meet me, even though I was only a friend of her friend. Then we exchanged a goodbye hug and with that our night ended.

The following day, I bought myself a subway pass (it's 200 yen cheaper on weekend I was told) as I had plans running all over that day. I imagined it would be as bad as all the walking in Kyoto but at least I would not be running to temples but maybe malls!

I had an arrangement with my hostel for a free guided tour at Osaka Castle that morning and I was the only one who signed up. The volunteered guide would still run the service as long as someone signed up, I felt a bit bad, and so I got ready another pack of oreo cookies to thank him.

Mitchy was my guide. A retired Japanese guy, bespectacled, thin and small frame, he spoke very good English. He was explaining to me the history and the way the castle was built, he even asked me about things in Singapore in comparison to Japan. We skipped entering the castle which was a museum as there was a photography exhibition going on and Mitchy said on other days I could have seen treasures/artefacts on display. The tour took about an hour and then we walked by the peach garden besides the castle, where he told me the peach blossom was a month earlier than the cherry blossom and was just as beautiful. Then he took me to a building where we lunched at the staff canteen. It was on the 21st storey and had a really fantastic view of the city! I had my lunch for only 500 yen, inclusive of a soup, drink, appetizer and a main course. Wow.

After lunch, we said goodbye and I went back to a mall we came through for some shopping! Then I went to Tennoji on the subway, this place Mitchy said was full of homeless but harmless people. When I got there, plenty of old people were sitting around, the pigeons were plenty too. There wasn't much to see (except the zoo but I had no time for it), so I hopped on the subway again to go back to Namba to get that bag I had been eyeing on.

But before that, it was time for tea and cake again. I just had to go to Muji Cafe. I saw an ad on a magazine in Koyasan guesthouse and the Japanese girls gave me the directions (as she frequents the cafe too). Again, I tried to ask the staff for some recommendation (thanks phrasebook) and happily settled with a ginger chocolate cake with ice earl grey tea.

After much effort, I finally found the bag shop, I had a hard time deciding which color to get (due to my fickle-mindedness again!!!). After a while and trying to communicate to the salesgirl in broken Japanese (using my phrasebook), I finally bought it. Then I rushed over to Shinsaibashi to get to Daimaru to get the Doraemon and Dorami desserts. The desserts came in super cute cups resembling the cartoon characters and I just had to get them. I saw them a day earlier and there was no more Doraemon, I was pretty sure they would replenish again and they did!

Then I returned to the shopping alley at Shinsaibashi to finish up my last minute shopping and got carried away. I almost forgot I was meeting Ayaka who was there for work for dinner. I rushed back to the station after wandering too far, took another subway to Osaka Station (Umeda) to meet Ayaka at her hotel. I lost my way again because I had no map of Osaka!!!

I was a little late but fortunately she was still there with a colleague. So we invited her along for dinner. My friend, Jean, recommended me this place, though she hasn't been herself. I had given the address of the little eatery to Ayaka earlier and she had planned how we could walk there. There wasn't an English signage for the place but on Facebook it has a page named Koyoshi Sushi Osaka. It was a very small sushi bar ran by a very cute Japanese old couple. The place has barely 10 seats, maybe 6 to 8?

The sushi were very fresh and needed no seasoning at all. The best I ever had. There also wasn't any menu. The moment we sat down, the old man decided for us what we would be eating. I was very glad I came with two Japanese friends as they did not seem to speak any English. I wouldn't even be able to communicate if I was alone. I couldn't remember how many I had, 6 or 7... and I was stuffed. The girls did one more than me! Also when the bill came, there wasn't a proper price tagged to the sushi, he quoted an equal price per head for us. It was reasonable (well I heard it was much more pricier from others).

After dinner, Ayaka and me retreated to her room for our usual girls' gossip and to tuck into those cute little desserts of mine. She offered me to stay for the night but I had to pack and leave for Rinku Town early the following day, so it didn't really work. What a shame! But I was really glad we got to meet up in Japan (her home country) and hopefully we will again somewhere else.

I bought a few things already in Osaka but I could foresee more the next day when I would be going to the premium outlet. Oh dear! It was tough packing that night but I managed to stuff everything in.

Accommodation in Osaka

I didn't linger around as much in the hostel as I would have like. It was a shame too as the staff seemed really nice and they had so many activities going on. That day I was going away, they were doing their weekly Takoyaki party!!! The hostel is called Osaka Hana Hostel, it felt really safe and big too. Imagine a hostel with elevator!!! So easy for big luggage, except that you got to carry it up a flight of stairs first to get to the entrance. I was in the mixed dorm, but wasn't around much to meet other people. I chatted briefly with an Indonesian girl who was travelling alone and another black guy from London from my room. The toilets (automatic!!) and bathrooms were situated outside, shared with a few other rooms but there was rarely a queue. There were also hair dryers at the basin area, how thoughtful! Laundry can be done at certain floors too. On my bedside, there was a wooden box you can lock your stuff in with your own padlock (or borrow one), and a lamp for reading. In general, I think the hostels in Japan have a very high standard of comfort and privacy. The only country I had bed with curtain!

Memoirs of Nippon (7)

The following morning, I bid a sad goodbye to the deers in the park. I shared my journey back to Osaka with an obasan, I met her in the hostel during breakfast and it appeared we could take the same train while she was heading to Kobe. She spoke very good English for a Japanese, and surprisingly she was the only one in the family who could. She was awed by my travel journal (LOL) and encouraged me to travel more while I can :)

I was heading to Koyasan that day, but I needed to drop my bags in my hostel in Osaka instead of lugging them up the mountain. Fortunately, I did! A first glimpse of Osaka revealed lots of shopping opportunities. Before jumping into the train, again I randomly walked into a restaurant as I had a craving for Katsu-karē. Oh so yummy! It seemed like I was the only tourist in there snapping picture of my food!

I bought the Koyasan-World Heritage Ticket from Namba station, and the whole journey took about 2 hours to get there, train and cable car. And so it happened that I actually forgot to check how to get to my hostel up in Koyasan (great)... I was quite lucky I met a Japanese-Caucasian couple along the way who kindly asked for directions in Japanese for me. So I guess shit does happen, just deal with it along the way.

It was drizzling when I alighted from the bus. The air up the mountain was also much colder. I finally made it to Koyasan guest house Kokuu, a very cool guest house with modern capsule-alike rooms. Here's a photo of my room (on the left). I remembered Laurent would be here too but it was pretty empty when I checked in. It was drizzling but I still went out to the nearby Okunoin for a walk. It's said to be the largest graveyard in Japan and the most sacred site in Koyasan. Amidst the rain, there still was an air of holiness and serenity.

When I came back from the walk, a few more people checked in. Laurent happened to be in the capsule right opposite me. Then Ryochi (owner of Kokuu) told us about this guided Okunoin night walk which was happening that evening. Lucky lucky us as it was a monthly affair and we were there at the right time. So five of us decided to go for it even though it was still raining!!! Each of us would hold a battery operated lantern and follow the guide who explained in Japanese. It wasn't as cold as I thought, I guess my tolerance for cold is really high!

We abandoned the guided tour at some point because there was a shortcut back to our guesthouse, but only 3 of us came back together. The other two somehow got lost. We were starving by then, but Ryochi was cooking us curries. He surely had a lot of "business", because all of us were so hungry!! Laurent and I had the butter chicken curries, and surprisingly it was too spicy for an Asian like me! For a French, he didn't even complain about the spiciness! Jack, a guy from Seattle, ordered his curry twice! Ryochi sure cooks well, I love it despite having to steal some beer from Laurent to ease the spiciness. That night, I played Othello with the Japanese girls and won, it was a friendly match so no biggie. Laurent and Jack apparently never heard of the game before. Jack had a very weird craving that night, he wanted oreo cookies... Amazingly, yes I had them!!! So funny. I passed it on to him which he initially refused but he caved in.

We spoke about going for the early morning prayers the following day but most of them backed out after having been on the night tour. So it was just the Japanese girls and me. It was about 530am, we woke up and got ready. The weather was freezing, even more so than the night before! I followed the girls and we arrived at Gobyo (Kobo Daishi’s Shrine) for an hour of prayers. It was surreal. A nap followed by a warm freshly made breakfast thereafter made the start of the day even better.

After breakfast, many of us were going on our separate ways. My main goal in Koyasan was to see Okunoin, so everything else didn't seem to matter much. I decided to tag along someone who would be on the same path with me (maybe same train back down to Osaka), it happened to be Laurent. He wanted to check out Daimon at the other end of Koyasan, so I followed him. Along the way, we saw a few magnificent temples (I didn't know all the names) including Daito and Kondo. We got to Daimon and there were a few trails to take but we didn't as we wanted to catch the bus back down soon.

So we went back to the bus-stop, it happened that a mini flea market was happening right around there. So we popped by and got served complimentary dessert with green tea. How nice! I was having a browse, then a guy told me I could have a mini card laminated with a four-leaf clover in it. Ahhhh, my lucky charm! Laurent was happy with a pack of "rice" he got which was said to be blessed by the monks.

We took the bus, cable car and then waited for a train together and wasted the time comparing silly notes between his French Lonely Planet's phrase book and mine. It was time for me to head back to Osaka while Laurent traveled to west Japan. It was fun to have travel companions for the past two days!

Memoirs of Nippon (6)

Before I left that morning, Ron said he was making plan to see Nara too, so we made plan to meet the following day to go about together. I left him a pack of my Oreo cookies, and it was the start of my Oreo cookies distribution (ahaha)... I realised I had made a habit of giving away my food.

I missed Mister Donut so I went back for breakfast before I took the train. However I didn't make a great choice, that sugar glazed one is still the best! The train to Nara took about 50 minutes, fortunately the hostel was a short walk away. I didn't manage to spot it till a resident nearby told me about it!

Nara Backpackers - a very old house, charming and very cosy. I had a very tough time making my booking as they didn't reply email, answer calls or reply on skype! But I got a friend in Japan to ring them up and managed to get a reply to my email! However, I won't recommend for old people with weak knees as the stairs to the second floor will be quite a daunting task. Again, I arrived early and couldn't check in. So I had to leave my bags and come back later. When I left for a walk in the city, a French backpacker, Lucas was leaving too, so I walked him out and we had a brief conversation. Before we parted ways, he handed me a "namecard" which has his Facebook email. LOL. The latest way of keeping in touch.

So I had a couple of hours to myself. I began a little exploration starting from the train station. I chanced upon many cool cafes, and I was already falling for this little city. I read about recommendation on renting a bicycle to sightsee but I wasn't really keen. I just wanted to take things easy. There were small alleys everywhere and in some corners were some really unique shops and cafes. It was hard not to shop here, and I started my little spree in Daiso, buying quite a few things.

I went to a few temples, one of which I randomly chanced upon and was tourist-free and had beautiful tulips! I also found the temple for love (read it from a guidebook) named Goryo Shrin, I looked and imitated a Japanese woman who was asking for blessing. It wasn't long before my stomach was growling and I settled in a cafe where many old Japanese women were having parfaits and me, a sandwich and homemade ice cream (after a bit of duck and chicken trying to communicate)! Oh, I looked on, amazed at how these old women were enjoying their parfaits... it really made me yearn for one too. I promised myself one! After the meal, I decided to go to the park (as I saw deers earlier on walking with Lucas to the train station) but it was empty!!

Back in the hostel, I was so relieved I could finally rest, get a shower and have my laundry cleaned. I was in the mixed dormitory, a female staff was also staying in the same room with a few other guys. One leaving, a few just arrived. I decided not to head out that night, since I had a late lunch and I would make do with some biscuits and tea before bedtime. I started talking to Laurent, a French, and it happened we would be going to Koyasan on the same day. He told me he hadn't found a place to stay, and was considering the temple stay, and so I told him about the hostel I would be at. After looking at it online, he booked it. That night, I just read up and chatted with one of the staff on some cafes which I could go to the following day. I was glad I did! It was freezing that night, I couldn't recall how many layers I wore to bed, there wasn't any air-con or heater and the wind was just knocking furiously on my window.

The next morning, I woke up early to make it to the Nara Park just to see the deers! I was thrilled, like a little kid... Immediately, I bought food from a seller to feed them. But within a few minutes, these two greedy animals finished them all.

I went further in the park to explore and saw Kōfuku-ji temple, there again I bumped into Laurent who was leaving that day. Around the temple vicinity, there were also many deers! I bought another pack of biscuits (deer food) and made sure I kept them in my pocket!!! If they can't see it and since they can't smell it too, I am safe!

I left and went on a mission to look for a bakery for breakfast. After walking for 15 minutes or so, I finally found it. Luckily I could sit in there and eat as it was crazily windy outside, the owner even served me a glass of water! Touched! Then I had to find my way back to meet Ron at the train station, he was 30 minutes late and I almost thought he wasn't coming.

Ron could speak basic Japanese so it really helped! I brought him to this place for lunch, recommended by the hostel staff for authentic Japanese food. We ordered a 2 dishes set meal to share (luckily they were kind enough to allow it), when it came, there were like 5 items. After that, I told him that we had to have tea and cake, maybe even a parfait. I hope I didn't scare him hahah! But first, we had to burn the calories... I took him back to see the deers and got him to feed them. I already felt like I belonged to this place ;)

Our first stop was Kasuga Taisha, at the very east of Nara Park. It was a very relaxing walk through the park and we got to see and feed many deers along the way. Some aggressive, some really shy. We only visited the outer area of the temple which was free. There was also a shrine nearby for love and marriage. I love the setting of shrines in the forest, it made it feel exceptionally sacred and peaceful. Also, not as touristic as Kyoto, it made visiting a lot more enjoyable and stress-free.

 "Kasuga Taisha is famous for its lanterns, which have been donated by worshipers. Hundreds of bronze lanterns can be found hanging from the buildings, while as many stone lanterns line its approaches. The lanterns are lit twice a year on the occasion of the Lantern Festivals in early February and mid August" - excerpt quoted from Japan-guide. 

Our next stop was Todaji temple, Ron was insistent on seeing that huge Buddha statue. On the way there, we found Nigatsu-do Hall (shown on the right), which was free to public and best of all, got the best view of Nara city! Todaji temple must be the most touristy attraction in Nara, it was packed. We paid 500 yen for admission, it was a quick visit, maybe 30 minutes. The 15m bronze Buddha is the main attraction in its main hall named Daibutsuden (Big Buddha Hall). You can also pay for a combined ticket to see the museum besides it (built in 2011).

Then it's time for cake (needless to say!). I shortlisted a few cafes and we just decided on one which we found on the 2nd storey, not far away from where we had our lunch. We shared the chocolate cake (which looked like molten chocolate cake but it wasn't) that came with a scoop of vanilla ice cream topped with berries. My earl grey tea came in a pot and nicely covered to be kept warm. It was heavenly, not sure was it the combination, the ambience, or everything in this little quaint cafe that made it so perfect. We both had the speechless grins on our face, so wide and so satisfied.

After tea and cake, I was still reluctant to give up on having a parfait (look, I promised myself)! Ron gave in, he was tempted when I showed him those pictures on the menu. Hahaha. So we settled in the Matcha Cafe and had the most authentic one representing Nara, it had a deer biscuit standing on top of it. Marvellous!

I'm sure Ron had a memorable time stuffing himself with me in Nara (Ooopss!). Anyway, it was about time for him to head back to Osaka, so we parted our ways. I carried on walking around and found myself some Japanese two-toed socks and Vitamin C drinks; also I bought some remedy for muscle ache and pimples earlier that day. There wasn't much nightlife in a small city like this, so I retired back into my bed after a nice shower and more packing.

Time to move on the following day... I was really glad I did two nights in Nara where most would deem excessive but it was just the kind of place I felt at home.

Memoirs of Nippon (5)

Every morning, I seeked for a new place for breakfast! Recommended by the hostel, I found Rauk, a bakery selling a good variety of freshly baked bread. I have no idea what they were but everything looked delicious and I just had to get something.

With my breakfast in hand, I walked to Toji temple. I had a detour and ended up walking almost double the distance (LOL!), that's what an adventurous holiday is about I guess! As usual, I was asking the Japanese for directions, it took me a while to find it. Toji temple is famous for its pagoda, but again, I didn't enter as many students were queueing to go in. Also with every temple, I had to pay an average 500yen admission, so I thought I would save for another one. I took some photos, bought a souvenir and then walked back to the station (along the way, I got stalled by a big bookstore).

I headed back to Kyoto station for a bus to Sanjusangen-do temple, the longest wooden structure at 120metres with 1001 statues of Kannon. But before that, I took a day walk at the skywalk in Kyoto Station (a secret place to see aerial view of Kyoto from 10th storey). The assemblies at Sanjusangen-do are pretty impressive but unfortunately no photography was allowed! If you're interested, the Kyoto National Museum is just opposite, I did not visit but hopped on the bus to Kiyomizudera temple. 

I found myself a quick snack in between all these temples-hopping. This fishie has sweet potato filling in it! As expected, Kiyomizu-dera was crowded, almost like Kinkakuji! Along the way, I saw many students and tourists, some dressed as Maiko/Geiko/Geisha (I even thought they are the real ones). Apparently, it's a very popular service the tourists like to do, especially the Taiwanese (haha, the Taiwanese girls I met in the hostel all did that). I just couldn't imagine walking uphill or a long distance in the tight outfit, and the weather was getting warm, no way I would want to be dressed up in that!

Kiyomizu-dera is stunning and listed as one of the UNESCO world heritage sites. An uphill temple with a prominent wooden main hall, it is perfect for photos, especially during spring and autumn where the cherry blossoms or maple leaves are in full blossom! I was too late. It might be useful to note they do have night illumination during Autumn and will be worthy for a visit. Though very packed, I quite enjoy the temple and its surroundings... it was also undergoing some kind of renovation when I was there. I did not drink from the Otowa waterfall though. Also it was here I spotted two Geiko and they seemed authentic as everyone was bugging them for a photo.

This was the last temple for me in Kyoto. I then headed to Gion in hope to see more Geisha but it was around 4pm and there was nobody except tourists. It was still a cool area to have a walk though.

It was past 4 in the afternoon and I was starving!!! Where was my lunch??? So I walked across the river and found a few restaurants. I found one I wanted to dine but no one came up to usher me in, so I moved on. 

Somehow I got back to Shijo area and spotted Lipton Cafe with delicious cakes (it was the strawberry season). That strawberry mille crepe caught my attention and so I got a table. When I ordered my main course and asked for the cake to be served later, to my disappointment, the waitress told me it was sold out (still a piece left at the window display). I quickly finished my meal and then tried again to buy it as a takeaway. I managed to get it!!! YEA! But till today, I couldn't figure out why she told me it was not available when it was STILL THERE!

After the meal, I roamed around Shijo area. There was free Wi-Fi even, I recalled walking as I whatsapped my sister! I wanted to do some shopping but having 3 more cities to go to, I refrained and only bought some snacks to keep me going. I found that same bus-stop to take the bus back to Kyoto station, and then I went up the Skywalk again this time for a night view. There was almost nobody and the city of Kyoto lit up right before my eyes. That drew my days in Kyoto to a close.

The following day, I would depart for Nara.

Memoirs of Nippon (4)

A new morning! I made a conscious effort to have breakfast with the office crowd at a cafe named Caffe Veloce by the train station. I had walked past a couple of times and it appeared to be constantly busy. I went in and surprisingly the staff spoke better English than I thought. I ordered a green tea latte to go with a crossiant and then found myself a table to people watch as I ate. It was about 830am, and a lot of them were chilling with their breakfast, some reading a book or paper before heading to work. The Japanese men in suit were very good eye candies too :)

That day, my plan was to head to Arashiyama on JR line, it was very accessible. Once I alighted, there was a map right outside the station, but I decided it was easier to follow the crowd. So I walked behind a group of Japanese and eventually surpassed them when I spotted Tenryuji temple. It was very scenic and serene (fortunately tourists hadn't flowed in yet at 10am), I managed to spot more leftover cherry blossoms. The temple was not that huge, you could easily finish in 30 minutes, there were also many flowers in full bloom besides the cherry blossom. I also met a nice Japanese uncle whom always offered a hand to take my pictures. Arigato! It's also useful to note, once you exit from the other end (that goes right to the Bamboo Forest path), you're not allowed to re-enter even if you have a ticket.

I enjoyed the stroll along the Bamboo Forest, but it started to get really crowded as tourists started to come in by then. I don't know how to describe it, but both sides are filled with tall green bamboos, and when you manage to get a glimpse of sunlight coming through the chunk, it is really pretty!

After getting lost for a while, I walked into a Japanese Spa to ask for directions and as usual, kind Japanese whom couldn't speak English would always get someone to help me - touched! I managed to get back to the train station past noon, right besides the station is the where you could take the Sagano Scenic Railway, rumoured to be a romantic 7km sightseeing ride. I missed the train when I arrived and was indecisive on whether to wait for the next one, which would mean less time for me in the aftenoon. I hate my fickle-mindedness in this instance. Anyway, I decided to skip (perhaps will be back again to take this next time), and continue to visit the other temples I had in plan.

Next, I went to Myoshinji temple (a maze of about 50 sub-temples), it wasn't one of the highly rated must-go but after reading about it, I got interested and decided to keep it in my list. It was interesting, many of them seemed to be private gardens and I couldn't go in anyway but it was like a maze, there could be a surprise at any corner. One bad point about it was I walked to one end and it wasn't connected to the other, it almost crippled me with the amount of walking I did at this place. I didn't regret coming but would skip this next time as not many temples were open to public.

Seriously, after this, I was exhausted. But I knew I just had one more temple to go! Kinkakuji temple! This magnificent temple is covered with golden leaf but it was so touristy I did not enjoy it as much as the others. Queues were forming to take pictures or to buy souvenirs, tourists and lots of Japanese students on excursions flooded this place. I very much prefer Ginkakuji over this.

Then I had to find a bus back. This was one of the days I didn't get a bus pass because I was taking quite a few JR trains. And unfortunately, I boarded the bus headed in the wrong direction!!! I got off at the next stop, and was embarrassed when I couldn't explain I took the wrong one and didn't have any extra cash to pay for it! I was lucky the driver didn't make a big fuss and drove off. What a day really!

I couldn't wait to get back to rest, and that 5 minutes walk back from the bus-stop seemed really far this time. I was so grateful when I finally got back. It was then I met Selwyn, a black guy from London at the lounge... We spoke briefly and he invited me to join him and another guy to go to Fushimi but I rejected because I was just dead tired and only wanted food.

I guess it just wasn't the day for me. I hunted down the Yakitori restaurant (Onishi) near the hostel, only to be chased out because it was full and they didn't know when the next table would be available. Is that the norm in Japan, to chase people out when they are full??? I never heard of that, because in Singapore, we sure can queue! Anyway, I had a backup (phew!), so I ended up at this Okonomiyaki place for dinner. It was quiet with only one other customer, and I ordered something with grated yam and a hot sake. The chef and the other customer (a Japanese guy) were making conversation all the time, while I waited patiently for my food. Thinking that it would look like a pancake, it was another surprise when it was served. Anyway, it tasted good and kept my tummy happy, so all good!

Also, I noticed the chef was staring at me all the time when I was eating, and I read that I had to keep the eye contact to acknowledge that I was enjoying the food! Something to learn eh. After a bit of "googling", I realised the dish I had should be yakisoba instead of okonomiyaki!

So with a happy stomach, I headed back, quite relieved how the day had ended. Then Selwyn came back with Ron (American Japanese guy), then we all got introduced and chatted the night away. They were so funny and relaxed, at the end of the night, we exchanged our Facebook contacts!

One more day in Kyoto before I head off to the next city...

Memoirs of Nippon (3)

That morning, I already had a full day plan. I'm still amazed I survived it. It was my first time in a public bus in Kyoto and it shocked me that the driver was so polite and had to "talk" or "thank" passegers when they alighted.

My first stop was the largest handicraft market held once a month at Chion-ji temple, it was a fascinating trip. I am so glad I went. It was past ten when I arrived and by eleven, I almost couldn't make it out due to the crowds and many delicately handmade things were sold out. It was filled with stalls selling handmade pastries, accessories, earrings and necklaces, bags, dolls... almost anything you could imagine. I didn't think I manage to see them all, it was huge and a big maze. After one and a half hour in there, I called it quits. I could no longer stand being sandwiched between people. I found a few good buys and left happy. Then I continued my journey to Ginkakuji temple. Along the way, I spotted some leftover cherry blossom trees and got over excited. 

The weather was perfect, cooling and I was glad I could wear a lot of clothes I normally couldn't back home. At some point, I found it even too warm for me, I should be living in freezing weather! I was also fascinated by the all sorts of vending machines, selling a huge variety of drinks and even ice cream. I had my eyes on so many of the drinks everytime, and soon it became obvious which were my favourites. Orangina & bitter lemon!

I personally adore Ginkakuji temple, I find it more charming than Kinkakuji temple. It was a very short visit, easily within an hour, so I decided to make some sketches while I was in some of these temples. Most of them have a zen garden where you could sit down and appreciate them but I didn't have the patience for it :P

After then, it was a long walk down Path of Philosophy where I was told I would get glimpses of cherry blossom trees. And indeed, all the camwhoring was a little embarrassing. It was a long walk, much longer than I anticipated. But luckily, I picked up a drink and some pastries from the handicraft market earlier and did my own picnic under a tree. There were also some cool cafes along the way, spotted a maple tree, cute mini temples and lots of kitties.

After lots of walking, I finally found my next destination - Nanzenji temple. It was very peaceful on a Monday, I didn't pay to go to any of the garden or buildings but instead took a stroll and did a sketch. This is what I called relaxing. There were many precincts within the temple, very scenic too. I skipped a few temples I intended to visit as they seemed to look the same after a while and more truthfully my legs were breaking!

It took me a long while to locate a bus-stop that could take me somewhere. Even with a bus pass, it was a chore to find a bus in Kyoto. It is really big and lots of walking are inevitable. I took a bus to Shijo, a shopping district area. I found a cool lane like Bugis Village (Singapore) or Carnaby (London) but less funky and selling a lot of food, clothings and lined up with convenience stores. I bought a crepe from a stall for dinner and communication was horrible as the young girl serving me did not speak much English at all!

There were also mini temples tucked neatly in an alley along the shopping lane if you noticed. I saw one and went in, apparently it was praying for safe delivery or pregnancy so I did a little prayer for my friend.

As the night fell, the streets lit up and it was a lovely sight. But I grew tired of walking and getting lost, and so wandered about finding the bus-stop meant to take me back. I chanced upon a cats' cafe where you can go in and play with the kitties when you dined. I like cats but I had no more energy left. I was seriously just dying to go back and rest my legs. The bus dropped me off near Kyoto station but it was still a 15 minutes walk back, and I was almost limping!!! I was just dreading repeating the same the following day...

Memoirs of Nippon (2)

After arriving in Kyoto, I had my first big embarrasssing incident. I was trapped in the handicapped toilet, not knowing how the flush worked. At that moment, I was frantically searching for a help phrase from my companion (phrasebook) but unfortunately they didn't have this "emergency for toilet scenarios". Come on, Lonely Planet, you need to work on it! I don't recall how long I was in there, but fortunately through some trial and error, I finally resolved it myself.

I took a walk around the station, it was massive and I got lost. Thereafter I began the search of my hostel, and yes it took me a while. The Japanese I asked along the way seemed to be tourists in Kyoto too, so nobody seemed to be able to help but they always tried. Finally I found it - Tour Club!!! But unfortunately, the hostels in Japan have this strict rule of checking in at 3pm, thus I was left stranded. It was also the first day of the time of the month, how lucky, I was not feeling the best and thus did want to overwork myself the first day I arrived.

I went back to Kyoto train station to grab a bite, my first meal at Mister Donut. Wow. Chewy. Best donut ever. Then I went to the tourist information (Please go to them if you don't have a plan, they are super helpful, they just made my life so much easier)! I decided upon two temples I shall conquer that day.

I took a few stops on the JR line to Fushimi Inari Taisha. The rare few shrines that do free admission, and it is my favourite so far in Kyoto. Its beautiful, the path up the mountain is lined up with thousands of torii. A torii is the red gate-pillar structure in my photo. I didn't do the trek up which would have took 2 hours (I probably would the next time if I'm back!) as I was feeling crappy that afternoon. But it was a joy even talking a stroll through the torii. Each of the torii is donated by a Japanese business (quoted from Wiki) and has engraving stating the date and also the donor. At Inari shrines, they worship the foxes.

I walked to the train station and took a stop to visit the next temple named Tōfuku-ji. I also read Tōfuku-ji temple is a popular spot to see maple leaves from the Tsūten-kyō bridge, even though there was no cherry blossom, neither was it autumn, it was still a pretty sight. The precincts of Tōfuku-ji house several gardens, I was in a dilemma which to visit as each visit would cost 500 yen (not very tourist friendly, isn't it). So I picked the one with admission to walk on Tsūten-kyō bridge, you could also visit a small zen garden. In fact, I think the main attraction would have been the main garden.

After a few hours at these two temples, I just wanted to chill back in the hostel. I took a walk back to the train station, just opposite the station, I was attracted to this shop plastered with photos of their delicious desserts. Unable to resist, I bought one box of some brown sugar mochi-looking dessert.

I like it in Japan that they have a priority cabins for elderly and women, I also realised they prohibit usage of mobile in cabin (how is it possible?).

Back in Kyoto train station, it was another challenge to find my hostel again. LOL. But it got easier every time. When I got back, I was so relieved to check in, got myself settled before planning what to do the following day. Tour Club has a very nice lounge area where you can relax and mingle with others, also a cute mini zen garden. I chatted with a French guy whom was cycling around Japan alone (mind you, he's not taking any train, or well as I was told). Impressive. I had a lazy evening that day, went out to get a drink and Takoyaki balls for dinner. Then I shared my desserts with people in the hostel, only the French took it. It felt a bit rubbery but the brown sugar in it was delicious.

It was also this trip I decided to be more daring with my fashion sense since it's Japan! I brought neon colored leggings which seemed to be a bit too much for the locals!!

I was staying in the female dorm and there was a German girl (pretty quiet) and two Taiwanese. The Taiwanese girls had been there a couple of days and they gave really good tips where to check out the cherry blossom! The next morning, I decided to go for breakfast with them at this Japanese fastfood chain. I had a bowl of udon despite not liking a full breakfast usually, I also didnt't like the food. They were kind enough to show me where to get the daily bus pass before we parted our ways.

Memoirs of Nippon (1)

Last year, I conquered a new continent, America. And this year, I am determined to see a new country. It finally came true a few weeks before my contract ended, I booked my flight to Osaka. So many destinations came to my mind, even Australia, but somehow with a twist of fate, destiny decided for me it was Japan.

It was about a month before the big trip and it being near the cherry blossom season, it was a frenzy time trying to look up for accomodation. Thanks to some friends who had been to Japan, they definitely helped me in many ways during my planning and eased a lot of my worries. Work was madness when it was finishing. So the real planning kicked in right after work ended.

It has become a habit for me to come up with a personalised scrapbook for any big trip of the year and so here's the one for Japan. I think I went a little overboard with planning and decided to "hack it", I listed those places I would like to see and play by the ear when time comes.

Destinations: Kyoto, Nara, Osaka (Japan)
Dates: 13 - 24 April 2013

The night finally arrived, I would have an overnight flight via Kuala Lumpur on Malaysia Airline. Mum and the sister came to send me off, which was not the usual! I guess they were excited about my solo trip to a completely new country! I was really nervous the night before, I guess it had been a while since the last solo trip but I was sure everything was going to be fine. Japan is really safe and the people are so polite, nothing can really go wrong (and yea it's true!). At the Changi airport, I picked up a Japanese phrasebook to be my travelling companion :)

It was rainy that night and my flight to KL got delayed, as it was a pretty tight connection (maybe an hour), I was in a panic I wouldn't be in time for my connecting flight as we were over 30 minutes late. Thankfully, the connecting flight was also delayed or probably waited for me! On the way to Osaka, I sat in the middle row at the aisle, I guess I'm over the "I have to have the window seat" phase. It was only 2 of us among the 4 seats, a quiet pleasant Japanese sat in the same middle row. He didn't make any noise, was reading his book and I couldn't help admiring their tidy, organized and eating behaviour.

The flight was okay, I managed to get some sleep during the 6 hours flight. The food was alright, the nasi lemak I had came with spicy shrimps (ermmm...). I took Malaysia Airline before, many years back to London, and the service was really attentive. But this time, a clumsy young steward actually spilled water on me. I guess it was just my luck because on my flight back, it was really good.

We arrived very early in the morning and my bag had to go through a strict custom check just because I was travelling alone. Argh, they broke one of my zipper handles, not sure if its the airline or the custom (arrgghh!). Despite being tired and slightly irritated, I was all excited... anything easily caught my interest. Japanese vending machine. Thoughtful trolley bags on sale at the airport. Japanese people.

Thanks to my research, I knew where to go when I landed... I headed straight to the ticket office and bought myself a pass to Kyoto with the next fastest train. In the train, I started a conversation with this Malaysian Chinese couple whom were heading to Kyoto as well. They were really surprised I was on my own. I was quite happy at how sociable I became once I got out of Singapore!