Memoirs of Nippon (6)

Before I left that morning, Ron said he was making plan to see Nara too, so we made plan to meet the following day to go about together. I left him a pack of my Oreo cookies, and it was the start of my Oreo cookies distribution (ahaha)... I realised I had made a habit of giving away my food.

I missed Mister Donut so I went back for breakfast before I took the train. However I didn't make a great choice, that sugar glazed one is still the best! The train to Nara took about 50 minutes, fortunately the hostel was a short walk away. I didn't manage to spot it till a resident nearby told me about it!

Nara Backpackers - a very old house, charming and very cosy. I had a very tough time making my booking as they didn't reply email, answer calls or reply on skype! But I got a friend in Japan to ring them up and managed to get a reply to my email! However, I won't recommend for old people with weak knees as the stairs to the second floor will be quite a daunting task. Again, I arrived early and couldn't check in. So I had to leave my bags and come back later. When I left for a walk in the city, a French backpacker, Lucas was leaving too, so I walked him out and we had a brief conversation. Before we parted ways, he handed me a "namecard" which has his Facebook email. LOL. The latest way of keeping in touch.

So I had a couple of hours to myself. I began a little exploration starting from the train station. I chanced upon many cool cafes, and I was already falling for this little city. I read about recommendation on renting a bicycle to sightsee but I wasn't really keen. I just wanted to take things easy. There were small alleys everywhere and in some corners were some really unique shops and cafes. It was hard not to shop here, and I started my little spree in Daiso, buying quite a few things.

I went to a few temples, one of which I randomly chanced upon and was tourist-free and had beautiful tulips! I also found the temple for love (read it from a guidebook) named Goryo Shrin, I looked and imitated a Japanese woman who was asking for blessing. It wasn't long before my stomach was growling and I settled in a cafe where many old Japanese women were having parfaits and me, a sandwich and homemade ice cream (after a bit of duck and chicken trying to communicate)! Oh, I looked on, amazed at how these old women were enjoying their parfaits... it really made me yearn for one too. I promised myself one! After the meal, I decided to go to the park (as I saw deers earlier on walking with Lucas to the train station) but it was empty!!

Back in the hostel, I was so relieved I could finally rest, get a shower and have my laundry cleaned. I was in the mixed dormitory, a female staff was also staying in the same room with a few other guys. One leaving, a few just arrived. I decided not to head out that night, since I had a late lunch and I would make do with some biscuits and tea before bedtime. I started talking to Laurent, a French, and it happened we would be going to Koyasan on the same day. He told me he hadn't found a place to stay, and was considering the temple stay, and so I told him about the hostel I would be at. After looking at it online, he booked it. That night, I just read up and chatted with one of the staff on some cafes which I could go to the following day. I was glad I did! It was freezing that night, I couldn't recall how many layers I wore to bed, there wasn't any air-con or heater and the wind was just knocking furiously on my window.

The next morning, I woke up early to make it to the Nara Park just to see the deers! I was thrilled, like a little kid... Immediately, I bought food from a seller to feed them. But within a few minutes, these two greedy animals finished them all.

I went further in the park to explore and saw Kōfuku-ji temple, there again I bumped into Laurent who was leaving that day. Around the temple vicinity, there were also many deers! I bought another pack of biscuits (deer food) and made sure I kept them in my pocket!!! If they can't see it and since they can't smell it too, I am safe!

I left and went on a mission to look for a bakery for breakfast. After walking for 15 minutes or so, I finally found it. Luckily I could sit in there and eat as it was crazily windy outside, the owner even served me a glass of water! Touched! Then I had to find my way back to meet Ron at the train station, he was 30 minutes late and I almost thought he wasn't coming.

Ron could speak basic Japanese so it really helped! I brought him to this place for lunch, recommended by the hostel staff for authentic Japanese food. We ordered a 2 dishes set meal to share (luckily they were kind enough to allow it), when it came, there were like 5 items. After that, I told him that we had to have tea and cake, maybe even a parfait. I hope I didn't scare him hahah! But first, we had to burn the calories... I took him back to see the deers and got him to feed them. I already felt like I belonged to this place ;)

Our first stop was Kasuga Taisha, at the very east of Nara Park. It was a very relaxing walk through the park and we got to see and feed many deers along the way. Some aggressive, some really shy. We only visited the outer area of the temple which was free. There was also a shrine nearby for love and marriage. I love the setting of shrines in the forest, it made it feel exceptionally sacred and peaceful. Also, not as touristic as Kyoto, it made visiting a lot more enjoyable and stress-free.

 "Kasuga Taisha is famous for its lanterns, which have been donated by worshipers. Hundreds of bronze lanterns can be found hanging from the buildings, while as many stone lanterns line its approaches. The lanterns are lit twice a year on the occasion of the Lantern Festivals in early February and mid August" - excerpt quoted from Japan-guide. 

Our next stop was Todaji temple, Ron was insistent on seeing that huge Buddha statue. On the way there, we found Nigatsu-do Hall (shown on the right), which was free to public and best of all, got the best view of Nara city! Todaji temple must be the most touristy attraction in Nara, it was packed. We paid 500 yen for admission, it was a quick visit, maybe 30 minutes. The 15m bronze Buddha is the main attraction in its main hall named Daibutsuden (Big Buddha Hall). You can also pay for a combined ticket to see the museum besides it (built in 2011).

Then it's time for cake (needless to say!). I shortlisted a few cafes and we just decided on one which we found on the 2nd storey, not far away from where we had our lunch. We shared the chocolate cake (which looked like molten chocolate cake but it wasn't) that came with a scoop of vanilla ice cream topped with berries. My earl grey tea came in a pot and nicely covered to be kept warm. It was heavenly, not sure was it the combination, the ambience, or everything in this little quaint cafe that made it so perfect. We both had the speechless grins on our face, so wide and so satisfied.

After tea and cake, I was still reluctant to give up on having a parfait (look, I promised myself)! Ron gave in, he was tempted when I showed him those pictures on the menu. Hahaha. So we settled in the Matcha Cafe and had the most authentic one representing Nara, it had a deer biscuit standing on top of it. Marvellous!

I'm sure Ron had a memorable time stuffing himself with me in Nara (Ooopss!). Anyway, it was about time for him to head back to Osaka, so we parted our ways. I carried on walking around and found myself some Japanese two-toed socks and Vitamin C drinks; also I bought some remedy for muscle ache and pimples earlier that day. There wasn't much nightlife in a small city like this, so I retired back into my bed after a nice shower and more packing.

Time to move on the following day... I was really glad I did two nights in Nara where most would deem excessive but it was just the kind of place I felt at home.